Mt. Fitzgerald, or a bit south of it, to an obvious ramp which slants up to the right on the right side of the summit ridge. In early July, the route to the ramp is a gentle snow slope. Follow the ramp to the ridge and summit. Class 2-3. Thomas Canyon. This was the descent route on two Mazama climbs of Mt. Fitzgerald. Thomas Canyon Is an interesting area, with several waterfalls and some Bristlecone Pine. It should be visited, and the descent of Mt. Fitzgerald, Snowflake Peak, Full House Peak or Onthank Peak offers a good opportunity. In early season, when the road is not open, it might be a good ascent route for Mt. Fitzgerald. The key to the route is either of two couloirs just west of the northwest ridge of Snowflake Peak and extending from the upper canyon cirque to the saddle between Snowflake Peak and Mt. Fitzgerald. LIBERTY PEAK (11,036). Immediately west of Liberty Pass. North Ridges. Circle Lamoille Lake on the north and gain the ridge a bit south of its lowest point. Class 3 to the ridge; Class 2 on the ridge if one stays west of its crest. East Sides. The fine glissading descent route of the Mazamas to liberty Pass, and a moderate snow slope for an easy ascent in early July. Class 2 when the snow has melted. FAVRE PEAK (10,880+). One mile due east of Liberty Pass; named for the bench mark on the summit. From road end ascend an obvious gully leading to the ridge to the right of the summit. Thence to the summit. Class 2. LAKE PEAK* (10,922). Northeast Side*. From road end, ascend to Liberty Pass and thence to the ridge north of Lake Peak. Mazamas Job Faber and Don Steiner bypassed a series of gendarmes on the east side of the ridge to an easy gully north of the summit. (The summit gully is much steeper.) They then ascended easy slopes and snow to the summit ridge and proceeded to the summit by passing a small gendarme on its east side. Class 3. Northwest Side*. Mazma descent route. From Liberty Pass follow the trail west of Liberty Lake and east of Favre Lake; thence leave the trail and contour the northwest side of Lake Peak. Take the first gully west of the summit and ascend to the summit ridge; thence to the summit. Class 2-3. PEARL PEAK (10,847). This peak, south of the Lamoille Creek area and six miles south of Harrison Pass, requires the Sherman Mountain quadrangle. Approach is via Lindsay Creek. While probably no mountaineering achievement, it should be a true wilderness experience,

offering a study of Bristlecone Pine. One of this species in the Wheeler Peak area of Nevada is the oldest known living tree on earth. Possibly it may be surpassed by a tree near Pearl Peak five to six thousand years old. HOLE-IN-THE-MOUNTAIN PEAK (11,276). This peak is the highest in the East Humboldt Range. it appears on the Halleck, Neveda, 30-minute series quadrangle (out of print and hard to find) but part of the north approach from Angel Lake is not on that map. Neither the mountain nor the northern approach is on any other U.S.G.S. quadrangle, but the approach is on a 7-1/2 minute quadrangle which is being prepared. Possibly a copy of an unedited preliminary map may be obtained until it is ready. The name of the peak is derived from Lizzie's Window, which can be seen from the highway east of the peak. Map study and written inquiry indicates that there may be no route better than from Angel Lake. Angel Lake. This lake, at 8,378 feet, is 13 miles by road southwest of Wells, Nevada. On July 4, 1963, Alvin McLane and Bill Martin climbed Hole-in-the-Mountain Peak from a camp at Angel Lake. They ascended to the main ridge of the range, following it with traverses off the ridge from time to time as dictated by circumstances. This route would be a 12 ile round trip for a straight-flying crow which is not limited by a climber's route-finding problems. it can be a very long day's work, but will be rewarded by exceptional mountain scenery. One should not encounter any pitches harder than Class 3. The knife ridge south of the peak encloses Lizzie's Window and bristles with sharp, spectacular spires which should delight the pinnacle aficionado. CHIMNEY ROCK (10,000). This is the impressive rock tower that appears to dominate the scene as one drives to Angel Lake. (A lower tower at 9,932 feet is actually the one that is seen.) The Rock is just under a mile S.S.W. of Angel Lake. The approach is up the steep north slope of the ridge due south of the lake. From the ridge, contour southwest to a small tarn at 9,340 feet, called "Moon Lake" by Alvin McLane. Here there is an unexcelled campsite. There were no signs of previous visitation when McLane and Fred Stanch arrived in July, 1970, although they found a cairn on the summit of Chimney Rock. The saddle northeast of the Rock is easily ascended. From here there are 300 feet of excellent Class 4-5 climbing (two pitons on ascent and two for rappelling) via the northeast ridge. The start of the climbing route may be hard to ascertain, but a difficult move

56 · 1970 MAZAMA

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