Mount Fitzgerald

cirques and ridges should provide some tine exploration.
FULL HOUSE PEAK* (11,133). This peak can be climbed readily from Island Lake by either the north ridge or the east ridge. Maria Faber led the Mazama party by the north ridge, descended the east side of the south ridge to the Snowflake Peak Saddle and then descended westerly into Thomas Creek Canyon. Class 2-3.
SNOWFLAKE PEAK* (11,137). Southwest Side. Alvin McLane and Bill Martin walked across frozen Lamoille Lake on July 6, 1963. (At the same time in 1970, some of the winter's snow and ice still floated on the take, but most of it had thawed.) They ascended the southwest side of the peak, Class 4, finding a cairn on the summit. They named it Snow Lake Peak in conjunction with the small snow-covered lake to the southwest. In the intervening years, for reason, unknown, "Snow Lake" has become "Snowflake," certainly a dainty name for a peak which might better be called Ruby
Aiguille.
Southeast Couloir*. From road end, ascent to just below the saddle south of the peak. Ascend the southeast face to a couloir which is just east of the south ridge. Ascend the couloir to the summit. Descent route of McLane and Martin. Class 4. (Probably easier than Southwest Side.)
North Ridge. We have no record of an ascent of this side of the peak but think it would be an interesting Class 4 ascent. Take pitons; we might be wrong. -
MT. FITZGERALD* (11,200+). This is the prominent peak which is seen at the head of the canyon from Thomas Creek Forest Camp. We suspect that the high point at the north end of the long summit ridge is the true summit. Someone should make a positive determination.
East Side*. From road end, ascend to the saddle just south of Snowflake Peak. Contour around Snowflake Peak to the saddle between it and Mt. Fitzgerald. Follow the east ridge of

1970 MAZAMA · 55
 
Page Index Prev Page 13 Next Issue Index