will be steep snow before July, and should be climbable rock thereafter. Descent can be made by the southeast side, bearing in mind, however, that the tree crossing may be more difficult to find from the west side. RUBY TOWER* (10,720+). This is perhaps the most fascinating Ruby peak in appearance. Although one can easily overlook it in studying the map and its summit is below 11,000 feet, it is quite conspicuous and intriguing from Thomas Creek Forest Camp, where it looks like a tower on a medieval castle. Southeast Notch*. Climb into the cirque north and east of the Tower (see Tibia Dome, Southeast Side) and thence to the saddle on the ridge east of the Tower. From here climb to the ridge south of the Tower, the north end of which is the prominent southeast buttress of the peak. We ascended to a notch left of the buttress, probably missed the best way to the notch, and hit a Class 5 pitch or two with no piton cracks. It would probably be better to go to the saddle farther left on the south ridge (or to pay more attention to the route): After attaining the south ridge, contour northerly on its west side to the obvious notch between the Tower and its southeast buttress. From the notch a ledge leads around the east side. The final pitch on the east side is Class 4, climbing upward and to the right from the ledge. ONTHANK PEAK* (10,835). Named after Donald G. Onthank, a former president of our club and "Mr. Mazama" to several generations of our club members. Northwest Saddle*. After climbing Ruby Tower, Spencer Bentley and I contoured around the east side of intervening Middle Peak (10,720) to the saddle between it and Onthank Peak; thence to the summit of Onthank Peak where Spence built a cairn. Class 3-4. South Ridge*. Mazama descent route. Take the trail up Thomas Canyon to a convenient place to cross the creek and thence choose one of the many routes to the ridge on the west. The routes to the ridge are easier farther south. Thence along the ridge northerly to the summit. Class 3 to the ridge. Class 2 along the ridge to the summit. MIDDLE PEAK (10,720+). We went around this peak, which is between Ruby Tower and Onthank Peak; we should have started earlier and climbed it, too. See Onthank Peak, Northwest Saddle. VERDI PEAK* (11,074). This is the highest peak on the ridge north and east of Lamoille Creek. It is difficult to identify from the road unless one drives well past it to near the road end. From here it can be identified by the deep

notch which separates it from Scott Peak to the south. From the same place one can choose the canyon to use for the ascent of either peak. West Side*. The peak is readily climbable by taking one of the canyons which lead to the peak or to its northwest ridge. Just before getting to the ridge, angle up to the summit, which is the west pinnacle. Class 2. South Ridge. The ridge up from the notch between Verdi and Scott Peaks looks more imposing from a distance than it does from near the notch. Because of the weather, we reluctantly passed it after climbing Scott Peak. It appears to be Class 4 and should make a good climb in combination with Scott Peak. SCOTT PEAK* (10,811). See Verdi Peak. Named after John D. Scott, 50-year member of the Mazamas and author of We Climb High, the recently published history of the first 75 years of the Mazamas. Northwest Couloir*. Spencer Bentley and I chose a canyon leading to the South Ridge with the intention of climbing a probably Class 4 route on the southwest side of the peak. We arrived at the place to rope up in a driving rainstorm and abandoned our plan. We contoured around the peak at the northwest side. Just as the rain stopped, we arrived at a couloir leading toward the summit. A rope length or more up the couloir there is a choice of routes. We took the left route for a good climb, Class 4, which required a rappel into a notch before arriving at the summit. Had we made the other choice, the climb would have been faster, easier and less interesting. Our attempt to build a cairn on the summit was interrupted at the outset by lightning so close that we practically rappelled off the peak without using the rope. MT. THOMAS* (11,316). Island Lake Cirque*. From Island Lake a number of route possibilities will be seen; they will differ substantially as snow conditions vary. There will probably always be a Class 3 or easier route available. South Ridge*. From Island Lake the South Ridge can be gained and followed to the summit. Class 3 if one climbs east of the ridge from time to time. Either more or less snow could change this route substantially. West Side. Climbed Memorial Day, 1968, by Eric and Audra Adelberger. Class 3 North and East Sides. Mt. Thomas has a north, a northeast and an east cirque, in addition to the Island Lake Cirque, and some interesting peaks or gendarmes on the intervening ridges. Although there may be problems of access due to Lamoille Creek and brush, these

54 · 1970 MAZAMA

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