just east of the ridge is a way. A gully to the west may be easier, but loose rock may be a problem. The tower (9,932 feet) northeast of the Rock, called "The Flue" by McLane, is rimmed by a vertical wall and was not ascended. MOON SHAFT (9,800). First ascent july 8, 1970, by A. McLane. Moon Shaft is the rock spire immediately west of Chimney Rock. (The name is derived from the fact that McLane and Bill Martin passed under the Shaft in full moonlight during their epic return from Hole-in-the-Mountain Peak in 1963.) Ascend to the saddle between the Rock and the Shaft; then traverse the north side of Moon Shaft to a gap in the ridge west of the Shaft. Although a free route on the fragile looking spire seems impossible, investigation of the exposed southwest face will disclose one. Several feet of Class 5.4+ climbing is necessary before there is a suitable piton crack. Above, a steep ramp with a convenient crack leads to a wide belay ledge (anchorable around to the northwest). This part is probably as hard as below, but may seem easier because of piton protection. A hand traverse across the exposed south face should be exhilarating if not particularly difficult. Due to a mishap at this point, Stanch waited while McLane scrambled 40 feet on to the slightly lower of the twin spires.	Total roped climbing is about 110 feet.
	* * *
	This article is but a limited start to a more comprehensive guide to the Ruby Mountains and East Humboldt Range. Hopefully, it should perform two functions: provide a description of some of the obvious climbs which will give endless enjoyment to many climbers, and provide a basis for many further exploratory climbs of other and more difficult routes. The limit is beyond anything here suggested. Fine routes must be available on Ruby Tower, Mt. Gilbert, Snowflake Peak, Little Half Dome (Peak 10,182), the walls north of Lamoille Creek, in the East Humboldt Range, and elsewhere. As a step toward such a future guide, those with new routes, or corrections to those here described, may write to Carmie R. Dafoe, Jr., c/o Mazamas, 909 N.W. 19th Avenue, Portland, Oregon 97209. Communications received will be collected for use in preparing such a future guide. The Ruby Mountains and East Humboldt Range are wonderful mountains. Let us all enjoy them, do nothing to detract from their enjoyment by others, leave them as we find them, and help educate others toward conservation of the mountain environment.
1970 MAZAMA · 57

Page Index	Prev	Page 15	Next	Issue Index