JOHNNY BURRO'S BALAD



I am Johnny, the burro
My master is John Lemoigne
I died by his side in the desert
In death as in life, we are joined

*
We live in a place called Death Valley
A prospector's life we lead
A-searchin' the ground for its riches
Midst rock, sand and tumbleweed.

I carry his goods, pick and shovel
More faithful than a wife
He walks with his hand on my shoulder
And tells me the stories of life

Though my Master's years are many
He's still and rugged and strong
But this summer's sun seems hotter
And the days seem longer than long.

One day as walked through the desert
'Neath the scorching sun of mid-day
I felt his hand weak on my shoulder
As he silently led the way.

My master seemed to be tired
He lay down by a clump of mesquite
He tied my rope to its branches
To keep me nearby while he sleeps

It's been three days since we stopped here
I've eaten the branches around
My master still lies there a-sleepin'
So silently on the ground.

My tether is made of cotton
It's soft and it's short and it's thin
I could leave, but. I can't leave my master
He may wake up and need me again

Oh master, I call you so gently
Please wake up and bring me some grain
But more than food, I need water
To ease my gnawing pain.

The vultures circle above us
The coyotes come by in the night
But they I now they must keep their distance
For they fear my hooves in a fight

Oh master, why are you so silent
Have you gone to that land beyond sleep?
I wish you would stir from your slumbers
And relieve this vigil I keep

My throat cries out for water
I'm weary, my strength's nearly gone
The coyotes come closer each night now
They know they won't have to wait long

Oh master, why don't you wake up?
Oh master, I need you so
Where is your hand of comfort?
Where are your words, soft and low?

Oh master, I'm growing weaker
The pain is cruel and deep
I must lie down now beside you
And follow to that land beyond sleep
* * *

I am Johnny, the burro
My master is John Lemoigne
I died by his side in the desert
In death, as in life, we are joined



Perky Hammel
November, 1986
THE DESERT PAGE     BY Bob Michael, SAGE Associate Editor

BIG BEND: TEXAS AT ITS BEST

Big Bend is a land beyond time, a place where, like the Baja back country, you can taste and feel the remoteness and mystery. The desert epicure could easily spend a whole idyllic winter and Spring season here, because Big Bend has it all; peaks to climb, canyons to raft, wildflowers, geology, and plenty of room to get lost in.

One of the last great undisturbed corners of the West, Big Bend is not on the way to or from anywhere. The long roads down there from I-10 dead end; crossing to Mexico is by boat or swimming only.

I think the best approach to Big Bend is by US highway 67 from Marfa south to Presidio, past the beautiful gray 7700' prow of Chinat Peak (No Trespassing!).From Presidio, only Rio Grande bridge for hundreds of miles, a narrow paved highway dubbed "El Camino del Rio" heads down river to the Park past uninhabited mesas and canyons, ablaze in spring with Texas bluebonnets (lupines) and other flowers. The western edge of the park is reached near the old mercury-mining town of Terlingua, from where the sheer-walled fortress of the Chisos Mountains, rather like the Kofa Range but bigger, dominates the eastern horizon. The name "Chisos" is presumably a Spanish derivation of an old Comanche word for "ghost" or "spirit", and the softly glowing purple and orange volcanic battlements in the long stretched-out sunset do seem a spirit world of rock a mile in the sky.

A good paved road climbs the north side of the Chisos and drops into the Basin, a roughly circular hollow in the top of the range about five thousand feet in elevation and surrounded by a panorama of beautifully-formed seven thousand foot peaks. There is a big campground here, and even a lodge with cushy accommodations and a great dining room. The Basin is a perfect place to relax a few days and feast upon the lovely peaks which surround you; this is beyond a doubt one of the finest concentrated hiking areas in the Southwest.

On my one trip to Big Bend, I bagged Emory Peak, the Park summit at 7,835', Toll Mountain (7,415') and Lost Mine Peak (7,535'). Emory and Toll combined make a trail hike of about 7 mi RT from the Basin trailhead. The summit of Emory is a fine (although only second class) pointed pinnacle of blocky granite and gives a grand 360' panorama of the entire Park. Lost Mine Peak is a fairly short bushwhack and third class summit block scramble off the Lost Mine Trail. On this wilderness summit, one is almost guaranteed solitude, unlike Emory Peak, which seems to have a full complement of Texans during high (late winter/early spring) season. (Out of staters and Yankees were fairly rare when I visited; the Texans were right proud to show off their mountains to someone from Collarodda.) I did not have time to bag perhaps the most impressive high Chisos peak, Casa Grande (ca. 7500') which presents a sheer cliff to the Basin but appears easy enough from the back side.

Although not a peak, the South Rim Trail climbs almost as high and is an experience in desert spirituality not to be missed. The trail climbs out of the Basin up a cool oak and pinyon-forested canyon and runs along the edge of the precipitous southern ramparts of the high Chisos at an elevation of about seven thousand feet. The bright scarlet flowers of claret-cup cactus seem to enjoy clinging to the edge of the drop-off, which falls away six thousand feet to the Rio Grande and the mysterious blue-hazed ranges of Chihuahua and Coahuila. As painter Ludwig Bemelmans wrote about Big Bend, it is a "panorama without beginning or end...what Beethoven reached for in music."

No Big Bend trip would be complete without a trip to the canyons if not in a raft, at least on foot, The lower stretch of Santa Elena Canyon is penetrated by a foot trail along the river. It's very reminiscent of the Marble Gorge section of the Grand Canyon, but done in beige and ivory instead of orange and pink. While driving between the Chisos and the mouth of Santa Elena, note the Little Picacho-like turrets of the Mule Ear Peaks.

I've touched on only a very small sampler of the wonders of Big Bend, but this is supposed to be a PAGE and not a volume. Suffice it to say that it would be as popular a place for Desert Peaks outings as Death Valley if only it were closer.

For the next Page, we'll take a break from roaming remote desert peaks to ask the question - Is the DPS your favorite Section? How is it different from the HPS and SPS? This is another Reader Participation Page, so let's have those cards and letters, folks (426 No. Jackson St #203, Glendale 91206). Thanks to Randy Bernard for the idea.

Bob Michael
 
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