Notes on the Guardian Angels Harold McFadden

On a recent trip to Zion NP, Dan Warner, Dan Mihaijevich and I climbed SGA and NGA from Left Fork, using several Sage write-ups as guides. These write-ups were very useful, but I felt that the following additional information might be of value to DPS'rs planning to do these peaks.

Any group going into the narrows should be prepared to ford at least two deep pools (five feet plus at low water) without, benefit of logs. The major obstacle is the second waterfall, at present spanned by a very narrow log bridge which will undoubtedly be washed away at the next rise.

Two write-ups describe the route to NGA as starting about 100 yards (or feet) beyond the SGA route exit, near a tall tree leaning at a 4.5° angle. We tried this route and soon found ourselves in an ugly 4th class chute filled with loose debris. Two slings were found in this area hanging from rotten chunks of sandstone - evidence that others had also encountered problems. After considerable exploring, we found that the best route to NGA starts directly opposite the route to SGA. One proceeds almost directly upward (perhaps slightly to the right?) for about 10 minutes, then comes to a small amphitheater on the left (shown on the map). Do not enter this, but continue upward to a rather level area, then turn left to climb a wall. At the top is a moderate 3rd class move; surmounting this one finds oneself on the canyon rim looking directly at NGA for the first time. A large duck marks the spot. From here, simply follow the ridge in a northerly direction (about 343°) until it merges into the southern slope of point 6750, to the east of NGA.

With an early start and some knowledge of the routes, it is possible to climb both peaks in one day, but fresh water might not be available at the route exit points, so plenty should be carried from the springs found after the second waterfall.

Before heading for Zion, get a weather forecast. We assumed we would have fine October weather, but had to endure 1000 temperatures in the outer canyon.


Warm VABM, Cameo VABM Exploratory, Oct. 27-28, 1979 by Barbara Lilley

On a beautiful clear mild fall day, 11 "explorers" met at Tea Kettle Junction (real teakettles) 8 miles north of the Racetrack in Death Valley National Monument at midday on Sat. and drove to Ubehebe Mine to start an easy 4-mile backpack to camp in a sheltered wash 2 miles east of the peak, after descending the wash below the mine for 11/2 mile, heading NW up a tributary wash and crossing over a low ridge. Thanks to the short backpack, not only was an overabundance of water carried but an abundance of other appropriate beverages as well, kept cool wrapped in sleeping bags. Super-leader Gordon MacLeod even supplied Martinis complete with olives for the late afternoon cocktail hour (who said desert backpacks had to be asture). As the camp was outside the Monument, a social campfire was enjoyed; the evening was mild but temperatures dipped to 35° by Sunday morning.

Sunday, heading SW from camp across an alluvial plain, 10 first climbed Cameo (5064'), then, after descending to a saddle, followed a ridge (easy Class 3 at times) north to Warm (6196'), arriving by 10:45 AM. Backtracking about 1/8 mile, they then descended a steep ridge to the alluvial plain and headed back to camp, stopping for lunch en route. All had backpacked out to the cars by 2:30 PM to start the long drive home, two high clearance vehicles via the Hunter Mountain road. Altho the principal peak itself is not exceptional, its remoteness and views from the summit make this peak worthwhile to be climbed (perhaps on a 3-day weekend combined with Tin and Dry) even if it is not considered for the "list".
 
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