Boundary Peak, Montgomery Peak, Glass Mountain Ridge

Jun 1969

By: Bill Banks


About 25 people met as scheduled at the Fish Lake Highway Maintenance Station for a one day climb of Boundary and Montgomery. All cars drove about 9.5 miles to the road terminus up Middle Creek. The snow on the slopes of Boundary had very nearly disappeared although to the south towards Mt. Dubois snow blanketed the ridges to the 9000' level. The group quickly ascended out of the canyon to the east-west ridge that reads 10400' on the topo. From here it is a ridge climb and walk to the summit. The 5000' gain to the first summit was accomplished in about 4-1/2 hours. Despite the write-up warning and the telephone screening many participants were in marginal condition. Some were as much as 1-1/2 hours behind. The traverse to Montgomery was covered with snow and ice but ice axes were not required. After another hour wait the main group started the descent. The stragglers just ascending were adamant about not turning back as I suggested, especially a young lady. She claimed that she must have her emblem. She continued to point 10400 where Wally Henry took the group back to the cars. After a two hour wait - well into the dark - first the girl and then three others were spotted coming slowly down the ridge Everyone then descended not too rapidly to the cars.

Early next morning the group of 15 survivors headed past Benton Station to the Glass Mtn. roadhead. We found a pleasant, deserted campground east of the peak and then began the ascent up a snow-filled gully to the ridge and summit. Once on the summit six of us decided to climb a bump to the south. Bob Herlihy agreed to escort the remaining people to the cars. Two people refused to follow instructions and descended into a canyon that they insisted was the right one. When they failed to return to the cars by the time everyone else was ready to go, Wally Henry volunteered to stay with me until they could be located. After waiting an hour Wally climbed a ridge to try to locate them. Eventually we drove to where we thought their canyon would cross the road. They were finally found wandering down the road and their apologies were only slightly less adamant than my vows to not lead again.

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