Mopah Point

24-Feb-62

By: Bill Lentsch

We arrived at camp late Sat. afternoon, everyone finding the spot with no trouble. About 15 people showed up to make the climb. It appeared that the weather was going to be clear and cool Sunday, but late in the night it clouded over and showered a bit. Those who didn't care were awakened by the slamming of car doors by the less hardy. However, we awoke to a beautiful but cold morning.

It took us approximately an hour to reach the base of the mountain, where some of the better climbers began to pull ahead. A group of five, made up of Lothar Kolig, Arkel Erb, Russ Hubbard, Bill Huesel, and myself, skirted east of the summit around to the south face where we encountered several routes. We chose a good 3rd class one slightly to the left of the scree slope and made the summit the same time as Gene Gail who had chosen a chimney we had by-passed. This route we chose gave Russ Hubbard his first taste of rock climbing and he did very well. The route gets somewhat exposed as one nears the summit.
Cliff led the rest of the group, with the exception of two who turned back, around the Keyhole Route, but the keyhole had slid off the mountain.

We spent half an hour on the summit before starting back. Arkel and I decided to attempt the second peak, which appeared to be very challenging. We cut off from the rest and dropped directly down the north face to the ridge connecting the two peaks, and made our first attempt up the couloir on the northwest face. We were stopped when the need for hardware became apparent. Another attempted route ended the same way. It appeared that all routes are quite exposed and should provide some interesting climbs for those prepared. We plan to make another attempt in the near future and would appreciate some information from someone who has made the climb.

Personally, I was very impressed with the members and their actions and wish to thank them all for a wonderful time. This was my first climb with your organization, and I hope to do many more.

(Ed. note:
From the above description of the climb it appears the group did not climb Mopah, the more sheer faced of the dual peaks. The southern peak, named "Umpah" by a DPS group several years ago, is slightly higher but easier.)