| Notwithstanding its
proximity to Yosemite Valley, comparatively few persons have been entirely
through high-walled Tenaya Cañon. There is no trail, and even in the dry
season deep gorges, precipitous cliffs, end waterfalls are encountered, while
in the spring high water interposes further obstacles. Last spring a party of
Sierrans led by Bestor Robinson, and including Lewis Clark, Oliver Kehrlein,
Kenneth May, and Randolph May, ventured to go up the cañon from Mirror
Lake to Tenaya Lake. Their successful ascent is as far as records indicate, the
first one at this time of year. The party started on Sunday, May 28, 1933,
shouldering knapsacks and climbing-ropes before the morning breeze had ruffled
Mount Watkins' reflection in Mirror Lake. Leaving the broad Snow Creek Trail, a
faint trail used by fishermen was followed for two miles to the mouth of the
inner gorge, where the river has carved a deep gash through cliffs which
stretch across the cañon. In dry seasons one goes up the gorge, but now
it was a swirling torrent. Fording several branches of the creek, we climbed
the cliffs on the Clouds Rest side up through brush and along ledges to the rim
of the gorge. On several occasions the rope provided a valuable safeguard.
After crossing a few rocky gullies and brushy ridges we came to "Kehrlein's
crack," a delicate friction-traverse, followed by a narrow but secure ledge
that slopes down to the stream several hundred feet above the falls in the
upper end of the inner gorge. Fortunately, avalanche snow had bridged the
stream just at the bottom of our crack, so we crossed to the west side, went up
past the fir grove, and worked our way through heavy brush around the west side
of the lower big falls, then established a bivouac camp on a wide sheltered
ledge about 100 feet above the lower falls. Next day we climbed the nose of a
ridge, using the rope several times on steep pitches, almost to the western rim
of the cañon, skirted the head of a side cañon, crossed a bald
dome, and dropped into the long basin above the big upper falls. At the upper
end of this basin were a score or more of fine waterwheels, some compact and
symmetrical, others misty like delicate plumes. The stream was too swift to
cross, so we climbed around the west side of the short upper gorge, crossing a
precariously steep snowbank into the meadow below Tenaya Lake. Both meadow and
lake were covered with mow more than a foot deep. After spending the night at
the ranger cabin, we swam the creek at the lower end of the lake, followed
blazes and beat-tracks for about seven miles, returning to Yosemite Valley via
the Forsyth Trail. Full of adventure, the trip demonstrated that Tenaya
Cañon can be climbed in the spring; but it is recommended only for those
who are properly equipped and have some rock-climbing skill.
PICACHO, CALIFORNIA
BY GLEN
DAWSON
Twenty miles north of Yuma, on the
California side of the Colorado River, an impressive looking peak, Picacho,
rises high above a number of other fantastic |
buttes. Its
base may be reached by an hour's walk from the abandoned Picacho Mine. By going
around to the left, a break in the cliffs, known as The Crevice, is found
leading to the sky-line. From the top of The Crevice a view of the Colorado
River is obtained-and there the real climb begins, The first difficulty is a
short pitch to a ledge which leads down across a deep crack. A series of
remarkable ledges, or shelves, leads almost to the summit. The last pitch
requires a shoulder-stand. There is another way to the top without a
shoulder-stand, but it is more difficult.
The late afternoon of December
1, 1933, John Poindexter and I started up Picacho; but instead of crossing the
crack down to the left, we climbed directly up, later getting into the upper
part of the crack, which runs up the whole face. The final two pitches (one
leading to a platform at the top of the crack and one from the platform up by a
small cave to the summit ridge), because of the insecure rock and the vertical
cliffs, require good balance and assurance. Both our route and the regular
route lead to the low end of a long narrow summit. To reach the highest point
to the south, it is necessary to climb up a rather difficult pitch and then
rope down an overhang. It was getting dark as John and I came up the overhang,
hand-over-hand, back from the highest point. We found a less difficult way
down, but were unable to locate the regular route. A full moon lighted up the
opposite cliffs, but left us in the dark. The next day, led by Randall
Henderson, who has made a number of climbs on Picacho, a small party of Sierra
Club members reached the top: W. A. Van Degrift, D. R. Brothers, Dick Newsom,
Elsie Shipps, Louis Turner, Dick Jones, Glen Dawson, John Poindexter, and
Arthur Johnson. The last four went to the highest point.
Although Picacho
is climbed several times each year, I can recommend it as a most interesting
climb. There are two lesser peaks to the west which I feel very certain are as
yet unclimbed.
CASTLE DOME, ARIZONA
By
GLEN DAWSON
Castle Dome is an outstanding peak
in southwestern Arizona. A Sierra Club party made an ascent December 3, 1933:
W. A. Van Degrift, Glen Dawson, Cyril Johnson, Arthur Johnson, Dick Jones, J.
W. McKenney, John Poindexter, Elsie Shipps, and Louis Turner. The cars were
left at the Ladder Tanks sign, a few miles north of the "town" of Castle Dome.
A large wash to the left of the Ladder Tanks Cañon leads toward Castle
Dome. The final ascent, a short rock-climb up the northeast side, is made by
going between the main peak and a prominent pinnacle. The west side has also
been climbed by Randall Henderson (publisher of the Calexico Chronicle) and T.
J. McKeeney. A number of sahuaro cactuses give the region added interest. In
the Kofa Mountains, nearby, several queerly shaped peaks offer a further field
for exploration. |
