Good camping spot for 4, possibly 6 or 7 people on the north side of the Southeast Ridge in the saddle just below the South Summit. There is plenty of small brush for a fire and there is excellent shelter from the wind.

11 am, arrived at the South Summit. Very cold wind. Had a steak snack and departed for North Summit at ll:20. Three climbers arrived at the North Summit about two minutes after we arrived on the South Summit.

Traverse- There was more extended exposure between the summits than we encountered on the S/E Ridge. Doug made one 4th class move and set-up a belay for the rest of us. The move was quite easy but there was the chance to fall far enough to be seriously injured. There are a couple of ducks along the route which stays on the south and west sides of the ridge except for the last leg that goes up the middle of the ridge to the North Summit. Only used the one belay on the whole trip.

12:10 pm, arrived at the North Summit. Had a very brief lunch and picture taking stop because of the cold wind. Departed 12:45 pm. for Wall Street- Slot Wash- Night Wash & Campo Noche (6,300'), arriving there at 3:25 pm. The route was pretty well ducked. I didn't take an altimeter reading, but in the lower end of Wall Street or in the upper end of Slot Wash, the trail is on a ledge or shoulder about 20' above the creek on the north side of the creek. You can see where people have been climbing down into and across the creek but there are a couple of ducks ahead of you on the shoulder. Go down and across the creek to the ducks on the other side and continue down the left side of the creek.

The cross over from Slot Wash to Night Wash is in a saddle that has a big duck in the middle of it.

We visited with the other climbers in Campo Noche, one of which was Harold Stier from San Diego, for 10 or 15 minutes and then headed downstream.

5,620', 4:30 pm, set-up camp where canyon narrows- just a fair spot to stop. Some slept down near the creek while others climbed up on the hillside. It was very cold that night. Water froze on bottom of pot while carrying water from creek to camp fire.

Jan. 1-

7:10 am, departed. Considerable ice on rocks in the creek which slowed down the bouldering. Passed good campsites at 3,900' and 4,100' which were large enough for a fairly big group.

3,680', 9:55, took a snack break. Ed asked if we thought anything had been difficult so far. We said, no. Be replied that we had passed most of the difficult sections.

3,000', 11:15 am. It took us 4 hours to drop 2,600' as compared to 8 hours for the same 2,600' drop in Canon Providencia on our Thanksgiving trip.

2,160', 1:25 pin, lunch break about 100 yds. in from the mouth of the canyon.
Departed at 1:40 pm to hike across the desert floor, up against the base of the mts., to Ed's Toyota, approx. 7 miles. The first 2/3rd's was on rocks, between prickly undergrowth and thru small washes. The last 1/3 was in lose sand. Following Ed's good guidance, we arrived right at the Toyota at 4:40 pm.

Unfortunately it took so long to get thru customs that we didn't have time to climb Cabezon Pk. on the way home. Oh well, it will be there waiting for us.
 
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