Waucoba Mountain, Boundary Peak, Montgomery Peak

18-Jun-65

By: Bob Van Allen

Non-Scheduled Trip

On Fri morning at 5:30 we left the Westgaard Pass Jct en route to Waucoba Mtn via Squaw Flat. "We"= Gene Andreosky, How Bailey, Jan Hawley, Vic Miller, Miriam Myhre, Jim Van Allen and myself. As indicated in the DPS Guide, the Waucoba Canyon Road was left in favor of Squaw flat. This approach is not for passenger cars. Four wheel drive is recommended; although somewhat rough we used a VW bus into the flat. About 4 miles after leaving the Hines road (shown on accompanying map), there is a switchback and grade which will stop many cars. Passenger cars should be left on the flat east of Andrews Mtn. Front the Narrows on, the first mile and a half is a sandy, rocky narrow wash. Shortly past the building (1/4 mile) an extremely narrow rock-walled passage allows VW buses to pass provided they are willing to part with their side mirrors. Passed this obstacle, the road is good all the way, to Squaw flat @ 8021', start of the climb. Follow route as topo shows. The last 800' gain is through an area covered with large trees and is a pleasant walk. R.T. time with adequate lunch and picture breaks was done in five hours.

Fri. PM we moved to the Boundary Pk roadhead above Trail canyon, again employing the Guide. Our route was traditional, but other factor's made the trip eventful. At 5:10 AM Sat we were on the trail. From the spring at 9700' we went up the left canyon to the saddle on the east ridge of Boundary. At 11,900' we found huge amounts of snow, particularly on the Boundary-Montgomery ridge. Boundary was reached at 11AM. After a short break, we took essential items of clothing, ice axes, and rope, which the book says, "Allow two hours for the RT". Due to ice and snows it took two hours to reach Mt. Montgomery. Weather was very clear. Views of the Palisades, Minarets, and the rest of the Sierra extended for hundreds of miles. The Whites and Arc Dome were outstanding.

We were among the first 1965 group, and in addition, FOUR OF THE SEVEN MEMBERS of the party qualified for DPS EMBLEMS, being Jan Hawley, Vic Miller, Jim Van Allen (age 14-1/2) and myself. Miriam Myhre completed 5 Desert Pks. The other two are both well on their way towards peaks on the list for DPS membership. After loud expressions of joy, lots of picture taking and congratulations, we returned to Boundary for lunch and descended to Camp, 13 happy and tired hours from our start. Fifteen hundred feet of glissading were enjoyed off Boundary. Incidentally, several of the party went over to Glass Mtn via Sawmill Mdw and did the round trip in 3 hours. Others of the party relaxed at a hot springs to round out the weekend.