Hercules Finger

19-Mar-98

By: Eric Beck

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After four days climbing in Joshua Tree, my partners Joe Kelsey and Bart Van Voorhis had to return to the Bay Area. I concocted a scheme to do the Hercules Finger in conjunction with their return as it is almost on their driving route.

Driving west on hwy 247, we turned north on Camp Rock Rd as for East Ord. At the point Camp Rock turns NE, we continued straight north for another 2 miles to the junction with Northside Rd and the end of the pavement. We continued straight north 2.5 miles on very good dirt to ajunction with a power line road heading northeast which we followed 2.9 miles. The spectacular Hercules Finger comes into view, a very slender70 foot granite spire. Another 0.25 miles brings one to within 100 yards. This last section is a bit mogulled, but I think any 2wd vehicle will make it. The initial view is of the slightly overhung SW face which has a 5.12 and 5.11 route. The opposite (NE) side has three more modest routes. Our choice was a superb five bolt route ( 5.7/8 )straight up the middle of the NE face, climbing on incut edges on excellent rock.

The Hercules Finger is approximately 5 miles SW of East Ord.

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