Mount Wilson (Nevada)

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By: John Vitz

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This is a peak I have had my eye on for some time, but Bob Michael managed to get there before me. While I was not as caught up in the moment as was Bob, I also think that this is a very fine peak and would be a good addition to the list (it goes well with Potosi). Donna O'Shaughnessy and I climbed it in early October and found it to be a nice hike except for the cruddy, descending traverse that Bob describes. Standing on the top of Point 6968 the east ridge does appear formidable indeed. However there is a route which stays just left (N) of the cliffs of the ridge. From Point 6968 (2124m) go north to the first break m the cliffs along the ridge which will allow access to the broken limestone wall on the east side (about 100 yards or so down from the summit). Descend the broken wall about 50 feet moving slightly to the right (S) to the base of the cliffs of the north ridge. Staying along the base of the cliffs, go south and then east along the base of the east ridge of Point 6968. Cross two little gaps while heading eastward and then climb a short crack to the very top of the east ridge. Descend the east side of this pinnacle and then go left down a steep chute. Traverse right to another notch and descend the series of chutes below. These are steep and loose. They climbed up OK but I'm not sure how easily they will descend. Continue eastward down to the main saddle staying close to the base of the cliffs wherever possible. This route is obvious coming up because you really have no place else to go, but I am not sure how easy it would be to descend. I am sure, however, that it is easier than going way down and then traversing as Bob had to do. We descended to the east ridge using the route mentioned by Bob and then returned by using the ridge route. As a final note I would like to say that I concur with Bob about the quality of the other Mount Wilson that he has recently written about. This one would go well with Tipton.


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